Pho: Part 2

"He removes the broth from the heat over which it has been simmering all night.  He strains it bowl by bowl through a sieve.  He skims off the fat that rises to the surface as it cools, and when he sees no more evidence of shine, he adds salt and fish sauce, testing it for taste...  Fish sauce is the key-in matters of soup and well beyond.  Even romance, some people say.  Tend your broth as if she is a sleeping beauty; keep watch over her, only waking her in the final hour with a splash of fish sauce.”

“You should caress the beef as you slice it…  If you treat it tenderly, it guides you toward the grain."

"He chops the herbs... and places a handful of fresh rice noodles in a sieve, ready to be immersed in boiling water.  There is still plenty of time to serve the latecomers who have just arrived… laying noodles and beef into each bowl with his right hand, pouring ladlefuls of broth over top with his left, his rhythm as even and essential as a beating heart.”

"The challenge… has less to do with the availability of ingredients than with the need for restraint.  He sees himself as a guardian of purity, eschewing bean sprouts and excessive green garnish in accordance with northern tradition.  They may well have opened their doors to the world, but that does not mean they must pollute their bowls."